Saturday, June 8, 2013

Second day. Acropolis, theater, Phaedra and other pleasures.


Good intention of the evening was to wake up early and while it’s not hot to work on the computers, to write down impressions, to post them and to write everyone we had to, and after that to go to Lindos, the Greek cradle of Rhodes. Actually, I can’t say that our idea failed but we left hotel really late and didn’t write down everything we wanted (I’ve already told that atmosphere here is harmful). So, firstly we went to swim on one of the best beaches on the Mediterranean Coast of Rhodes – Tzambica Beach. Actually, it’s the name of the nearest mountain where you can find a famous church with the icon of Our Lady Tzambica.

The beach is tremendous: it has not only the softest sand and the warmest water on the island, but also incredibly beautiful landscapes around, so that every time when you swim back to the coast you feel like you are on a tour in the nice small bay enclosed with high rocky mountains. Usually, these rocky overhanging steeps from where the rocks seem to fall pretty often (we met a lot of stones on the road), made us mad (my sister tries to pass these parts of the road as quickly as she can). But here it’s unbelievably beautiful! 
Everyone was blessing out: me and my sister were lying on the chaise longues (someone was even sleeping), Max was floundering about in the coming waves and building sand castles. A nice little girl strolling around and trying to attract his attention hasn’t received even a small loot at her.

We didn’t have any desire to move (thank you harmful Greek atmosphere) but suddenly remembered that yesterday we found a museum of ruins of ancient city Kamiros closed at 3 pm. That’s why we decided to start moving toward Lindos, ancient acropolis surrounded by castle of knights and a beautiful ancient city, one of the pearls of Rhodes. Here I should talk about other reason of European crisis: the island in summer lives at the expenses of tourists, but at the same time all touristic places like museums or archeological ruins are closed at 3-4 pm! We were so surprised and disappointed when having come to Acropolis of Lindos the second by value after Athens Acropolis, we found out that it’s also opened only until 3 pm. While we came there at 2.40 because Max fell asleep in the car and we were waiting for him to wake up. At the entrance we met an angry man who told us that we have 10 minutes because at 3 pm we should exit (there is always someone evil who would spoil the good impression). Means that they are not embarrassed about selling tickets for only 20 minutes! Nevertheless, we had enough time not only to observe Acropolis and to take pictures (it’s really delightful) but Max even finished his ice-cream. To spite all evil men!

Though the city we enjoyed in full. Actually, it’s completely touristic place with tiny streets, full of souvenirs shops, clothes and jewelry shops (me and Nastya werw just dying while looking at that splendor of original and authentic things because we wanted them all). There were also tons of cafés, restaurants and cozy inside courtyards. Only one thing we spent our money on was presents for our men (for Nastya’s husband and my boyfriend).  We found a wonderful shop where an artist painted not only striking delicate miniatures on the stones but also small paintings in the pieces of marble. 

After that we got completely lost because it’s impossible to orientate in these tiny twisting streets and went to a small bay, closed from all side with rocks. That is where we found our Phaedra. It’s the name of a girl in small café (family business) where we finally tasted famous Greek grilled fish. It was a second day of gluttony when you really got drunk from food. We ordered Greek salad (same amazing taste), pita with different tops and two types of fish. When it came to fish we were already somewhere in the seventh heaven, but the fish took is on tenth right away, it was just melting on the tongue. Relaxed completely we couldn’t move for some time so had an interesting conversation with a girl who recommended us what fish to try. Her name was like from ancient tragedy – Phaedra. She is from Athens, her father and brothers have this café business and in summer she helps them. We were again conquered by sociability and simplicity of local people. Max spilt juice on Nastya’s dress, the waiter said that it’s better to wash right away and led her directly on the their kitchen, gave her “Ferry” and changed Max’s glass.

Finally, we left café and came back to mountain Tzambica, which is famous for its monastery of Our Lady Tzambica. The miracle-working icon that helps to get kids, attracts every year a lot of pilgrims  from all over the Europe. As the chronicle says, one night shepherds noticed strange light on the top of the mountain. When curious they arrived at the top they found a wonderful picture. In the crown of cypress there was lighting a small icon of Our Lady in silver frame. “Tzamba!” – cried one of the impressed shepherds, what means “a spark” in local dialect. Locals called the icon Our Lady Tzambica, and a lot of people outside the island learnt about it. But soon it became known that discovered relic disappeared from the monastery on Cyprus.  It was returned three times but each time it somehow came back to the top of the mountain. Finally, having decided that it’s a sign from above they built a small temple on the top of the mountain where the sacred image was placed.


There 300 steps to the top and they are really steep and hard to walk. But the view from the top justifies all efforts and difficulties. Max is just a hero: he not only climbed there with us but even jump on the rocks like a goat. There is an amazing silence on the very top as if the world stood still and was listening to the sounds of the sea downstairs. That was the best end of the day full of emotions and impressions. 

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